For a long time, Trois-Rivières was a city people drove through between Montréal and Québec City. That was a mistake. Founded in 1634 and the second-oldest French-speaking city in North America, it has a walkable historic centre, original museums, a lively food scene and the river at the end of every street. Here is our ideal weekend.
Saturday morning — The old quarter
Start with Old Trois-Rivières, on foot. Rue des Ursulines and its old houses, the Boucher de Niverville manor, the Cathedral of the Assumption and its Guido Nincheri stained glass. The Ursulines museum tells three centuries of religious life, teaching and care. For lunch, Boulangerie François Guay or, for a very Québécois version, Binerie Chik and its baked beans.
Saturday afternoon — A museum like no other
The POP Museum explores Québec popular culture, but it is the tour of the Old Prison, in use from 1822 to 1986, that stays with you: the guides tell the inmates’ lives with rare candour. Another option, Boréalis, the museum of the paper industry, housed in a former filtration plant on the banks of the Saint-Maurice. Between the two, the Espace Métiers d’Art gathers the region’s artisans under one roof.
Saturday night — Eating well
There is plenty of choice. Poivre Noir for fine dining facing the river; Le Bette for creative cooking built on local produce; Le Buck for a no-fuss gastropub; Le Temps d’une Pinte for house-brewed beer and a well-crafted plate. To stretch the evening, the wine bars Le Renard and Épi serve natural wines and dishes to share.
Sunday morning — The river and the island
Île Saint-Quentin, five minutes from downtown, offers a beach, trails and a view of the meeting of the Saint-Maurice and the St. Lawrence. In summer, the Histoire sur l’eau cruise tells the city’s story from the river, aboard an electric boat. The sporty will prefer canoeing or paddleboarding with Maïkan Aventure.
Sunday afternoon — Forges and shrine
Two historic sites compete for the afternoon. The Forges du Saint-Maurice, founded in 1736, are the birthplace of Canada’s iron industry. Notre-Dame-du-Cap Shrine, with its octagonal basilica and riverside gardens, is a place of calm even if you are not a pilgrim. If you have children, AquaParc H2O or Adrénaline Urbaine will win the vote.
Where to stay
- Delta Trois-Rivières: the big downtown hotel, steps from the river.
- Hôtel Oui GO!: design-minded and relaxed, in the heart of town.
- Auberge du Monde and La Maison des Leclerc: two B&Bs where you sleep like a friend of the family.
- KiNipi: Nordic spa and rooms, to end the weekend in the hot baths.
If you come in summer
The city’s calendar is full: FestiVoix in late June, the Grand Prix de Trois-Rivières in August, the International Poetry Festival in October. On summer evenings, an Aigles baseball game is a typically North American night out, and the Cogeco Amphitheatre hosts big shows by the water.
Every address in the Trois-Rivières area is in the guide and on the map.
